Fixing the "Check Engine" Light in my Car Dashboard

I have a Honda Accord 2006 with a check engine light on the dashboard for the longest time. I had planned to use this car for my son's road test and didn't think that this alert would disqualify the car from being used for the road test by the ICBC staff. So here is the comedy of errors that happened working with my mobile mechanic to get the light to reset and how much it ended up costing me.

My son’s driving instructor said he had an OBD sensor that we can use reset the error codes that displays the check-engine light. I bought one from Amazon for $30 https://a.co/d/4sEiJYb and used that to check the existing error codes. There 8 error codes with their descriptions, namely:

P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor

P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

P1157 - Manufacturer Control

P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No activity detected Bank 1 Sensor 1

The remaining 2 error codes were P0141 and P1157 which were already repeated, so there were only 6 actual error codes. I reset the codes using th OBD II tool that I purchased and two codes returned almost immediately - P1157 (O2 upstream sensor) and P0141 (O2 downstream sensor).

I purchased the downstream O2 sensor from Amazon and that cost $41 https://a.co/d/2yReJ8T. The labor to get that replaced thru Take 5 Service Centre in Langley was $85. They reset the error codes and P0141 disappeared from the remaining check-engine alerts list. I purchased the upstream O2 sensor next and that cost $58 and labor was cheaper at $72. I also ordered 4 iridium spark plugs for $27.99 total to fix the P0301 cylinder 1 engine misfire. The labor costs was $50 for the spark plugs. The OBD II recheck showed both P1157 and P0141 no longer appear. Running cost so far was $389 with tax on labor added.

The check-engine light no longer showed up at ignition and startup, but unfortunately comes back on after driving for 10-20 minutes. Checking the error codes show P0325 and P0301 codes. I ordered the knock sensor for $17.85 to fix the P0325 error. I ordered the ignition coil for $26.99 to continue attempting to fix the cylinder 1 engine misfire. The quote from Take 5 Service Centre was $650 for parts and labor or $265 for the knock sensor labor only. Instead I went with the mobile mechanic who quoted $120 labor only to replace both ignition coil and knock sensor. I shouldn’t have done that. Subtotal is $165 and running total at this point is $554.

While trying to remove the airflow intake, the mechanic said the plastic cracked from old age. After replacing the knock sensor with the new one I purchased, he taped up the cracked airflow intake temporarily with masking tape and put it back in while I ordered a new part from Amazon for $30.99 https://a.co/d/i6oIJBw. He offered to put it in for me for $20. He finished installing the ignition coil to fix the error code P0301 cylinder 1 misfire but the check engine light came back on with the same alert after 10-15minutes of driving.

When the air intake hose came in, what  should have been a quick replacement turned into another headache for me. He accidentally knocked loose the radiator hose off the inlet. He said it was because of age and rust. Here is what I did to reconnect the coolant hose back to the broken inlet. I used a car vacuum hose that lying around. This was made of plastic to so it melted off when the engine temperature got too hot. 

I purchased a 3/4 diameter brass pipe nipple from Canadian Tire for $1.50 and a jug of coolant for $20. I used a lot of masking tape to ensure the coolant didn’t escape but if it did, had enough coolant to add to the reserve when engine overheats. I did eventually return this part however so I didn’t add it to my total expenses. Subtotal is $51 and running total is now $605.

I ordered a new radiator from Amazon for $158.24 with tax https://a.co/d/9bm7A5J to replace my old PA66-GF30 radiator that was obsoleted by my mobile mechanic. Delivery was quick considering it was a day or so before Christmas. The labor to get this replace was $150, no discounts whatsoever.

Radiator cap spring was also broken after he removed it from the old for transfer into the new. This spring would control pressure from core to reserve and I would have to get a new one purchased if he didn’t have one lying around. Thankfully he did find one so another crisis averted. He topped off the coolant after using up all the remaining coolant I had purchased initially. The subtotal at this point was $308 and total is now $913.

The check-engine light no longer appears at ignition but does appear 10-15 minutes later while driving. That should be enough to pass the road test inspection.